Laminate Floor Installation Guide

FLOOR PREPARATION:
Prepare your laminate for installation 48 hours prior: in its original, unopened package(s), lay the flooring flat and leave it in the room where it will be installed.
REMINDER: The room temperature should be kept at a minimum of 65°F (18°C) – and not exceed 100°F (38°C) for 48 hours before, during, and after installation. Relative humidity should be between 45-65%.

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION:
The subfloor must be prepared for successful lamination installation. The floor should be:
• Level: The slope of the subfloor should be less than 3/16” over a distance of 10 feet. Often, selection of an appropriate underlayment can rectify this problem.
• Clean: Even a tiny area of dirt/debris can cause laminate to crack as it ages.
• Smooth: Grooves or bumps on the subfloor should be less than 1/8” high or deep. Once again, underlayment can help with this.
• Dry: Floors should not show considerable signs of moisture or alkali.

When dealing with concrete subfloors it is crucial that a moisture test be performed, as all concrete floors give off a little moisture. A common moisture test:
• Cut a few 3-feet x 3-feet square pieces of polyethylene (plastic).
• Duct-tape them to various areas of the subfloor.
• Wait at least 72 hours before lifting up a corner of each square.
• Look for wetness and beads of condensation on the underside of the plastic – or a dark, moist subfloor area.
• If this is found it may indicate a moisture problem. Contact a flooring professional for advice on how to proceed. A Calcium Chloride test may have to be performed.

Crawl spaces are often problematic areas for moisture. Certain ratios of required ventilation per square foot are required. The laminate manufacturer often specifies this in their guidelines.

If your concrete subfloor has been cured recently, it is recommended that 60 days be given for it to dry before installation of any new flooring.

As with any floor type installation, make sure the subfloor is swept, vacuumed, cleaned, and free from debris. Also, make sure the grooves of the laminate are clean prior to installation.

INSTALLATION:
Underlayment should be put down prior to installation of laminate flooring. Underlayment, usually polyurethane, prevents any glue from sticking to the subfloor. For more information on underlayment and its additional benefits (sound reduction, moisture barrier), click here.

Laminate flooring should be installed using the floating method: the laminate should not be adhered to any surface or subfloor. All of the floor’s parts are attached to each other, but none of these component parts are affixed to the floor. Rather, it should just lie atop the existing floor. In most cases, the older floor is not removed. This is another added benefit that saves time, and installation and removal costs. By floating the flooring, the laminate freely expands and contracts as the room temperature and/or environment changes. (In keeping with the floating quality, any trim and moldings installed should not be attached to the flooring either.)

IMPORTANT: Installing the first row of laminate absolutely straight is CRUCIAL. DO NOT CONTINUE if the first row(s) is not properly aligned or if the joints are not tightly sealed. As a general rule, if the first three rows are installed straight and sealed properly, the rest of the installation should be trouble-free.

There are two methods of installation:

GLUE INSTALLATION:
A bead of specially formulated, water-resistant (not waterproof) glue is placed between the tongue and grooves of every plank to lock them together and seal all the edges from moisture. Some manufacturer’s instructions will tell you to put glue only on the tongue (top), in the groove (bottom), or in both places.

Most manufacturers make their own glue and provide it in an installation kit. DO NOT substitute it with another, as that may void you flooring’s warranty.

When the boards are clamped together the glue must squeeze out of the joints. If the joints are not properly sealed and there are gaps in the glue, surface moisture could seep in between the planks and cause such problems as delamination or expansion damage (buckling, cracking, etc.).
A rule of thumb: if the job looks neat and mess-free, you are not using enough glue.

Don’t worry about the excess glue; if wiped off with a clean damp cloth or with a little bit of acetone within an hour, there should be no problem with glue removal. If you do encounter problem areas, use a mixture of 1 cup of vinegar to 1 gallon of warm water to remove the glue. Undiluted vinegar can be used if the mixture proves not strong enough. DO NOT USE SCOURING OR STEEL WOOL PADS OR ANY ABRASIVE CLEANERS AND/OR POWDERS.

A laminate floor will withstand surface moisture for several hours with no damage if it is properly glued, and will expand and contract uniformly with seasonal changes if the planks are properly bonded.

NOTE: The laminate’s groove segment may slightly swell because of the moisture in the glue. This is normal, temporary, and will correct itself shortly after installation.

GLUELESS INSTALLATION:
The glueless installation method has a tongue and groove system that snaps the pieces together without the need for adhesive. Once installed, they will not separate and the edges are sealed to prevent moisture problems. “Locking” laminate floors can be easily removed and replaced. They remove the element of installation error.

Most laminate manufacturers mention in detail the recommended tools needed for installation. Below are some of the commonly-specified tools:
• GLUE: see GLUE INSTALLATION for more details
• FILLERS & SEALANTS: Color-coordinated fillers fix seam gaps between planks, and the sealants are used around the perimeter to seal away moisture.
• STRAPS: Straps are used to pull plank rows together and usually are easier to use than clamps. As a guideline, it is recommended that you need a strap set for every four feet in the starter rows. Consult your laminate’s provided instructions/guidelines.
• TAPPING BLOCK: This is used to lightly tap planks together. Most tapping blocks are specific to a particular laminate manufacturer’s tongue and groove system/design.
• WEDGES: V-shaped wedges are used to insure a minimum gap is left between the laminate and all vertical walls. The laminate manufacturer’s installation details will specify the required gap distances.
• PULLING BAR: This is used to help pull two pieces of laminate together. Exercise caution so the plank surfaces are not chipped as a result of using this tool.

Some cutting may be required during installation. To minimize dust and debris in the installation area, cut the laminate planks in a separate work area.

Most wall irregularities will require you to cut the first and/or last row of boards to fit the contour of your wall. You can use:
• a carbide-tipped cutting blade that has been designed for use with laminate and laminate products;
• a hand saw; Cut with the decorative side of the board facing up.
• a power saw; The direction of the blade should cut into the decorative side of the board.

CONSULT YOUR MANUFACTURER’S GUIDE FOR SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS AND SUGGESTIONS REGARDING YOUR PARTICULAR LAMINATE FLOORING.

Some helpful reminders:
• To prevent warping and/or buckling when movement occurs, leave a ¼” gap between the edge of the flooring and the walls. (Molding will hide the gap.) Do not fit laminate flooring flush against any fixed vertical surfaces (walls, pipes, passageways, staircases). Larger rooms must have an expansion gap every 30 feet to enable movement.
• Laminate planks are normally laid parallel to incoming sources of light such as windows. If lighting is not a problem, laminate planks can be laid parallel to the longest wall in the room.
• Planks that are sloped along the length in narrow areas such as the hallways look best.
• For a more rustic look – to minimize pattern repeating – pull from three or more packages of laminate during installation.
• Over-tightening clamps can cause tongue damage, bowed boards, or peaked joints.

AFTER INSTALLATION:
It may be necessary to cut door trims and/or the doors themselves to accommodate the change in floor height as a result of the new installation.

New wall bases, moldings (quarter-round, end, T), reducer strips, over-the-top step nosing, and baby thresholds should be installed at the end of installation to cover expansion zones around the perimeter of the floor. Nail or glue these trim pieces to the wall, never the floor, so that the floor remains “floating.” Never force any trim against the floor.
• WALL BASES cover the ¼” expansion area around the perimeter of the floor.
• QUARTER-ROUND MOLDINGS are used in the same way as wall bases.
• END MOLDINGS are used where laminate flooring ends against a vertical surface – and where the wall base and quarter-round cannot be used (i.e., in front of a sliding door or under a toe kick).
• T-MOLDINGS can be used in areas where: (1) the room is larger than 40 feet in board length, (2) wider than 26 feet in board width, and (3) where the flooring continues from one room into another.
• REDUCER STRIPS can be used when going from one type of flooring to another, commonly where there will be changes in height of the flooring.
• OVER-THE-TOP STEP NOSING is used where laminate flooring meets a step or landing. They are NOT to be used on individual stair treads.
• BABY THRESHOLDS are used when wall bases and quarter rounds cannot be used where the laminate flooring ends against a vertical surface. Also, they are recommended when the flooring and/or room progresses from laminate to carpeting.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT WALK ON FRESHLY INSTALLED FLOORING. Allow the flooring to dry overnight before walking on it.