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The Many Types of Hardwood Flooring

SOLID FLOORING:
All wood flooring that is one piece of wood from top to bottom, regardless of width or length, is considered solid flooring
• They are generally ¾” thick and 2 ¼” wide planks; strips are generally random in length, ranging from 12”-84”.
• Solid wood flooring has tongue and groove sides.
• In the presence of moisture, planks will expand across the width of the planks, rather than down the length of the boards. In the winter heating months moisture leaves the wood and leaves gaps between each plank – and in the summer the wood will expand and the gaps will disappear because of the humidity. NOTE: Too much moisture may cause the wood planks to warp, cup, or buckle.
• Solid flooring must be nailed or stapled down over a wood subfloor, and CANNOT be installed below grade.
• Red oak, white oak, and maple are the most common species used for solid flooring.

ENGINEERED FLOORING / LAMINATED FLOORING:
This type consists of thin sheets/layers of wood pressed or laminated together to form one plank; Wood plies are stacked on top of each other but in opposite directions – also known as cross-ply construction-- creating wood that is more dimensionally stable than solid wood and more dimensional in appearance because of the grains running in different directions.
• They are available in 3 and 5 ply; most have a square edge.
• Sizes normally range from ¼” to 9/16” in thickness and from 2 ¼” to 7” in width; lengths are commonly random and range from 12”-60” in length.
• Stacking the wood in opposite directions prevents expansion cause by moisture. The wood layers are glued together and the plies will counteract each other and stop the plank from growing or shrinking with changes in humidity.
• This flooring type is suitable for basements, kitchens, utility rooms, and over slab concrete (where hardwood needs to adhere to a subfloor) – places where solid wood flooring may not be suitable.
• Most floors can be nailed, stapled, glued down, or floated over a wide variety of subfloors, including some existing floor types.
• For a unique look, planks of varying width and length (for example, 3, 5, and 7 inch planks) can be installed side-by-side.
• Most engineered floors are pre-finished, coming with a durable factory finish. Sanding is not needed and the flooring can be installed more quickly as a result.

FLOATING FLOORING:
This type involves tongues and grooves glued together, but the flooring is not attached to the subfloor.
• This method is recommended when being installed over existing vinyl flooring.
• Engineered flooring is commonly floating flooring. It is especially stable because the movement – or floating – adapts to temperature and humidity changes.

STYLES OF WOOD FLOORING:

STRIP FLOORING: linear flooring usually 2 ¼”, 1 ½”, or 3 ¼” wide and ½” or ¾” thick; this flooring often creates the illusion of a larger area/space.

PLANK FLOORING: linear flooring available commonly in 5” and 6” widths, but can be between 3” and 8” wide in fixed or random width and length and ¾” thick; complements traditional décor, creates a “country” feel, or adds an antique colonial ambience.

LONGSTRIP AND LONGPLANK: similar to engineered flooring; usually about 7 feet long and 7 inch wide boards with strips glued together; center core is generally a softer wood used to make the tongue and groove, and a hardwood finish layer is glued on top of the core; the top layer can be virtually any specie (generally between 17-35 pieces make up the top layer).

PARQUET FLOORING: series of usually 12” x 12” wood flooring squares that create a geometric design. Examples – standard, herringbone, Fontainebleau, Marie Antoinette

GRADES OF WOOD FLOORING:
The appearance of wood determines its grade:

CLEAR
• has the best appearance, natural color variations (not considered a defect), and limited blemishes
• the most expensive of the grades
• often considered FIRST GRADE WOOD

SELECT
• almost clear, but may include distinct color variations and some natural characteristics such as streaks, stained sapwood, sound knots, and checks
• often considered SECOND GRADE WOOD

COMMON
• more natural and rustic traits, like knotting and other distinctions, yet it must be firm and serviceable; often chosen because of these natural features
• Common Wood No. 1 has a flecked mix of light and dark colors, knots, flags, and wormholes.
• Common Wood No. 2 is more rustic in appearance and emphasizes all characteristics of the species.
• often considered THIRD GRADE WOOD

CUTS OF WOOD FLOORING:
The angle at which a board is cut determines how the finished product will look:

PLAINSAWN: produced by cutting tangentially to a tree’s growth rings, creating a flame-shaped or cathedral pattern
• It is the most common cut.
• The board contains more variation than others because grain patterns resulting from the growth rings are more obvious.
• It will expand and contract more that other sawn boards.

QUARTERSAWN: cutting a log radially (90-degree angle) to the growth rings produces a vertical and uniform pattern grain
• It twists and cups less and wears more evenly.
• Less board feet per log is produced and it is more expensive as a result.
• It is usually more dimensionally stable than plainsawn cuts.

RIFTSAWN: cut is made at a slightly different angle (30-degree) than quartersawn, but similar to quartersawn wood
• This wood is the most limited in availability.

EDGES OF WOOD:

SQUARE EDGE boards fit flush against each other for a smooth, traditional look, blending the floor together from board-to-board. Floors are easier to keep clean with these edges.

MICRO BEVEL/EASED EDGE boards are slightly angled where the boards meet, creating a hand-crafted and more defined look. This edge is more forgiving of irregular subfloors than with a square edge. Some manufacturers add an eased edge to both the length of the planks as well as the end joints.

FULL BEVEL EDGE boards are fully angled where the boards meet. As with MICRO BEVEL/EASED EDGE boards, they are forgiving of irregular subfloors. They are perfect for informal and country décor, and with urethane finishes applied at the factory, beveled edges are sealed completely, making dirt and grit easy to be swept or vacuumed out of the grooves.

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