SOLID
FLOORING:
All wood flooring that is one piece of wood from top to bottom, regardless
of width or length, is considered solid flooring
• They are generally ¾” thick and 2 ¼”
wide planks; strips are generally random in length, ranging from 12”-84”.
• Solid wood flooring has tongue and groove sides.
• In the presence of moisture, planks will expand across the
width of the planks, rather than down the length of the boards. In
the winter heating months moisture leaves the wood and leaves gaps
between each plank – and in the summer the wood will expand
and the gaps will disappear because of the humidity. NOTE: Too much
moisture may cause the wood planks to warp, cup, or buckle.
• Solid flooring must be nailed or stapled down over a wood
subfloor, and CANNOT be installed below grade.
• Red oak, white oak, and maple are the most common species
used for solid flooring.
ENGINEERED FLOORING / LAMINATED FLOORING:
This type consists of thin sheets/layers of wood pressed or laminated
together to form one plank; Wood plies are stacked on top of each
other but in opposite directions – also known as cross-ply
construction-- creating wood that is more dimensionally stable than
solid wood and more dimensional in appearance because of the grains
running in different directions.
• They are available in 3 and 5 ply; most have a square edge.
• Sizes normally range from ¼” to 9/16”
in thickness and from 2 ¼” to 7” in width; lengths
are commonly random and range from 12”-60” in length.
• Stacking the wood in opposite directions prevents expansion
cause by moisture. The wood layers are glued together and the plies
will counteract each other and stop the plank from growing or shrinking
with changes in humidity.
• This flooring type is suitable for basements, kitchens,
utility rooms, and over slab concrete (where hardwood needs to adhere
to a subfloor) – places where solid wood flooring may not
be suitable.
• Most floors can be nailed, stapled, glued down, or floated
over a wide variety of subfloors, including some existing floor
types.
• For a unique look, planks of varying width and length (for
example, 3, 5, and 7 inch planks) can be installed side-by-side.
• Most engineered floors are pre-finished, coming with a durable
factory finish. Sanding is not needed and the flooring can be installed
more quickly as a result.
FLOATING
FLOORING:
This type involves tongues and grooves glued together, but the flooring
is not attached to the subfloor.
• This method is recommended when being installed over existing
vinyl flooring.
• Engineered flooring is commonly floating flooring. It is
especially stable because the movement – or floating –
adapts to temperature and humidity changes.

STYLES
OF WOOD FLOORING:
STRIP FLOORING: linear flooring
usually 2 ¼”, 1 ½”, or 3 ¼”
wide and ½” or ¾” thick; this flooring
often creates the illusion of a larger area/space.
PLANK FLOORING: linear flooring
available commonly in 5” and 6” widths, but can be between
3” and 8” wide in fixed or random width and length and
¾” thick; complements traditional décor, creates
a “country” feel, or adds an antique colonial ambience.
LONGSTRIP AND LONGPLANK: similar
to engineered flooring; usually about 7 feet long and 7 inch wide
boards with strips glued together; center core is generally a softer
wood used to make the tongue and groove, and a hardwood finish layer
is glued on top of the core; the top layer can be virtually any
specie (generally between 17-35 pieces make up the top layer).
PARQUET FLOORING: series of usually
12” x 12” wood flooring squares that create a geometric
design. Examples – standard, herringbone, Fontainebleau, Marie
Antoinette
GRADES
OF WOOD FLOORING:
The appearance of wood determines its grade:
CLEAR
• has the best appearance, natural color variations (not considered
a defect), and limited blemishes
• the most expensive of the grades
• often considered FIRST GRADE WOOD
SELECT
• almost clear, but may include distinct color variations
and some natural characteristics such as streaks, stained sapwood,
sound knots, and checks
• often considered SECOND GRADE WOOD
COMMON
• more natural and rustic traits, like knotting and other
distinctions, yet it must be firm and serviceable; often chosen
because of these natural features
• Common Wood No. 1 has a flecked mix of light and dark colors,
knots, flags, and wormholes.
• Common Wood No. 2 is more rustic in appearance and emphasizes
all characteristics of the species.
• often considered THIRD GRADE WOOD
CUTS
OF WOOD FLOORING:
The angle at which a board is cut determines how the finished product
will look:
PLAINSAWN:
produced by cutting tangentially to a tree’s growth rings,
creating a flame-shaped or cathedral pattern
• It is the most common cut.
• The board contains more variation than others because grain
patterns resulting from the growth rings are more obvious.
• It will expand and contract more that other sawn boards.
QUARTERSAWN:
cutting a log radially (90-degree angle) to the growth rings produces
a vertical and uniform pattern grain
• It twists and cups less and wears more evenly.
• Less board feet per log is produced and it is more expensive
as a result.
• It is usually more dimensionally stable than plainsawn cuts.
RIFTSAWN:
cut is made at a slightly different angle (30-degree) than quartersawn,
but similar to quartersawn wood
• This wood is the most limited in availability.
EDGES
OF WOOD:
SQUARE
EDGE boards fit flush against each other for a smooth,
traditional look, blending the floor together from board-to-board.
Floors are easier to keep clean with these edges.
MICRO
BEVEL/EASED EDGE boards are slightly angled where the boards
meet, creating a hand-crafted and more defined look. This edge is
more forgiving of irregular subfloors than with a square edge. Some
manufacturers add an eased edge to both the length of the planks
as well as the end joints.
FULL
BEVEL EDGE boards are fully angled where the boards meet.
As with MICRO BEVEL/EASED EDGE boards, they are forgiving of irregular
subfloors. They are perfect for informal and country décor,
and with urethane finishes applied at the factory, beveled edges
are sealed completely, making dirt and grit easy to be swept or
vacuumed out of the grooves.
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