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A guide to re-finishing a hardwood floor

WOOD PREPARATION
The most important step in finishing a hardwood floor is the wood preparation. Make sure the wood being finished doesn’t have nicks or dents -- as they will inhibit a finish from successfully affixing to the floor. Instead, the finish will become translucent and flake off. Indentations, grease, oil, and other wood defects are removed with sandpaper, scraping, perhaps some sponging, and then more sanding. The stain/finish can then be applied to the wood’s pores evenly across the whole surface.

NOTE: Cherry, maple, and other closed-grain woods tend to develop finishing blotches because of their textured grain. No matter how much preparation and sanding is done to these areas, they will never disappear. This is part of these species’ natural characteristics.

IMPORTANT: It is recommended that prior to any new staining/finishing project that samples be prepared with the actual sandpaper and actual stains/finishes that are being used. This will determine if the end result is the desired one. A stain’s penetration also depends on the final grit with which the wood was sanded. Eight grit (or those with smaller grit numbers) sandpaper will absorb much more pigment than the finer tracks left by a 150 grit (or large grit-numbered) sandpaper.


COLORANT APPLICATION
After the wood has been adequately prepared, the colorant (dye, stain, filler, finish) can be applied and allowed to be absorbed evenly onto the wood’s surface. During WOOD PREPARATION, the surface could be sponged with water, alcohol, or solvents to show areas which may contain glue, marks, oil or uneven sanding. These areas should be repaired to ensure even absorption of the colorant.

Don’t know which type of colorant to choose? Below are some of the common colorants available. Consult you flooring professional(s) for more details and recommendations:

DYES: solution of colorants in mineral spirits, oil, alcohol or water that change the hue of the wood without hiding its figure or making the surface unclear or muddy
Dyes cling to both soft and hard grains, and often enhance and bring out the grain:
WATER-BASED DYE: as the water evaporates, the wood is left with only the color in its surface
OIL-BASED DYE: recommended for use on oily woods; can be added to pigment stains to form a combination stain/dye
SOLVENT-BASED DYE: recommended for use on oily woods; can be added to pigment stains to form a combination stain/dye

STAINS: dispersions of pigment particles within an oil or solvent base that are produced from a variety of synthetic and organic mineral sources;
• Pigments are ground into fine particles and come in a powdered form which may be added to other stains to increase undertone color and density.
• Stains can be sprayed, brushed, or wiped onto the surface. The amount of time the stain remains on the surface and how hard the stain is wiped off determines the depth and final color.

NGR STAIN/NON-GRAIN-RAISING STAIN: spray application dye solution containing no pigments that gives an overall transparent color to the wood, offering a high degree of clarity.

NOTE: For a dark look without covering up the grains’ appearance, use dye and then stain to create a clear, but dark color.


WOOD FILLERS: oil-based product that can be mixed with oil-based stains to even the wood’s color; fills in the pores to give them a lighter appearance and give the surface a smoother appearance.
• Fillers are applied in a heavy film or paste form either by spraying or brushing, with the excess wiped off with rags, scrapers, and/or burlap.
• You can use a neutral or a contrasting color to accent the wood’s pores.
• Scratches that go deeply into the wood will have to be repaired with filler to build up the damaged area before a new top layer of finish can be applied.

NOTE: Using filler may not completely fill all pores and is usually limited to horizontal surfaces on ring-porous woods such as elm, oak, and ash. Close Grain wood (cherry, maple, birch, poplar, to name a few) usually doesn’t require filler.


SEALERS: compounds that lock in color, protects grains, start the filling process, and/or provides a sandable coat/smooth surface for final surface application.
• Often the sealer is filled with particles that make the surface easier to sand and moisture resistant, but it can also inhibit clarity.

NOTE: All finishes require a sealer whether it is built into the finish or it is separate from the top coat.


GLAZES: transparent or semi-transparent stains that are applied after the sealer coat to even out a light and/or dark area after staining and sealing;
• This is an added step for achieving color homogeny and depth, and for highlighting wood’s grain patterns.
• In some instances, a transparent alcohol dye may be used as a glaze as well.
TONERS: transparent or semi-transparent tinted applications of sealer or top coat which build up a color or even the tone of the wood; they tend to cover the grain because they are pigments suspended in the finish.


IMPORTANT REMINDER: If using area rugs with your hardwood floor, make sure the finish is fully cured before re-placing rugs. Rugs shouldn’t be placed on a water-based urethane finish until after 14 days. Other finishes such as solvent-based ones shouldn’t have rugs placed on them until after 30 days. CHECK WITH A FLOORING PROFESSIONAL(S) TO DETERMINE TIME ALOTTMENT FOR YOUR FLOOR’S CURING.

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